Day 21-3. Vinsternes to Ytre Snillfjord contd.
We weren't interested in wild camping tonight, we both felt that a shower would be nice but there seemed to be a shortage of campsites in the area. We checked a map by the side of the road as we passed into Snillfjord kommune and the only one within reach tonight seemed to be a caravan site although our map suggested it was a normal campsite. We decided in any case that we'd give it a try simply because there were precious few spots suitable for wild camping: there was only just enough room for the road the wound its way round the coast. Any land left over was covered in houses and farms or too close to houses and farms or too close to the road.
We finally arrived at the campsite in Ytre Snillfjord just as the weather decided to treat us to a light shower. We dashed about trying to find a reception or a shop and realised that it was indeed a caravan site with plenty of season pitches but not a tent to be seen. Realising there was no reception we picked a small spot opposite the showers, next to a standpipe and by a raised manhole cover and put the tent up. It took some doing as the ground was mostly gravel with a thin layer of turf on it. Whilst this was great for caravans and campers it was not so good for aluminium tent pegs.
As we were putting the tent up we noticed a man doing some maintenance on a building. We approached him and asked if it was okay to stay. He said yes and that it would cost us fifty kroner for the night plus showers. We had no idea if he was the owner, a contractor doing work on the site or another camper. We assumed the best and paid up. After all fifty kroner was a real bargain and more than compensated for the rather expensive site the night before at Visternes.
I started making some dinner and whilst I was having fun Damae was a little bored.She wandered out to the shoreline camera in hand to take some pictures. The campsite had a fine view of the fjord looking west. Whilst I was creating a cullinary masterpiece Damae noticed a spectacular light show as the sun started sinking in the sky. She took several pictures of the view. The constrast between the bright sunlight and the rest of the landscape was great and clouds hung in the sky creating a wonderful atmosphere. Meanwhile back at the tent dinner was nearly ready. It was nice to have our own tap and that manhole cover was like a little table. It meant the Trangia was a bit higher than normal which made cooking easier. Well I appreciated it anyway.
Once we'd eaten, made sandwiches for the following day and done the washing up I went and had a shower. The showers were great and a ten kroner piece gave more than enough for a long hot shower. In fact, I got bored before the hot water ran out. The gents toilets were a mess and smelt bad too, but the toilet for wheelchair users, which was unisex, was nice and clean. We were happy campers, a good distance cycled and a good shower and there was more to come.
With Damae still in the shower I realised that the sun had set below the hills and the sky was turning orange and red. From behind the hills across the fjord large flares of reddish light pierced the grey sky. Over the next fifteen minutes the sky became progressively more dramatic as the sun sank further behind the hills. When I noticed that Damae had finished in the shower, I went and got her and we enjoyed the rest of the sunset together. Finally I got bored of taking pictures and we returned to the tent.
The light show was a lovely end to the day and we were in bed before half past ten. If all went well tomorrow, we'd reach Trondheim in good time and treat ourselves to a proper rest day.